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In a Dutch oven, saute the bacon until crisp. Remove and drain on paper towels, and pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat. (If you are long on willpower, you can chop the bacon and add it to the dish later. If you are like me, you will eat all the bacon while going about the recipe). Add the vegetables and saute for about 10 minutes, then remove and set aside, leaving some fat behind. Salt and pepper the ribs. Working in batches, brown the ribs in the remaining bacon fat until nice and brown. When all are done, return them to the pot. Open the brandy or cognac, and ensure it is worthy of inclusion in the recipe by having a small snort. Pour over the meat, and using a long kitchen match, step back, avert your face, and ignite. When the flames have died down, add the wine, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pot, then add the stock and the vegetables. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat, cover and place in a 300 degree over for 3-4 hours. Remove the ribs from the pot and set aside. Pour the liquid and vegetables into a bowl through a strainer, pressing down on the veggies to squeeze out the flavor. Use a fat separator or a spoon to skim off the fat, return the stock to the pot and reduce until syrupy, about 10 minutes. Add the ribs, cover, and keep warm while you make the gremolata, if you haven't done so already. For the gremolata, combine the parsley, the garlic and the zest. Strew artfully atop the ribs, and serve alongside mashed potatoes or polenta.
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Stand ribs upright — fit more racks in smoker or grill
Adjustable stand — hold cookbook or tablet at eye level while cooking
Orange bitters — dry martini, gin and tonic, whiskey cocktails
Offset stick burner — traditional low-and-slow barbecue smoking
Cognac-based orange — crêpe suzette, Grand Marnier soufflé, cocktails
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Stand ribs upright — fit more racks in smoker or grill
Adjustable stand — hold cookbook or tablet at eye level while cooking
Orange bitters — dry martini, gin and tonic, whiskey cocktails
Offset stick burner — traditional low-and-slow barbecue smoking
Cognac-based orange — crêpe suzette, Grand Marnier soufflé, cocktails